Manado and Bunaken

The day after the Sailpass we take the dinghy into Manado to visit the postoffice, the museum and the market. In the afternoon we leave the city behind and sail back to Wori Bay. There we can join a dive boat to Bunaken island and we make a few dives op the drop-off full with corals and we see three big turtles!

The 25th of August we start our way back to the south. Coming from Maluku we've had the current and winds with us, but now they are both against us and it takes us five full days to sail to the Wakatobi marine national park on the southeast tip of Sulawesi. On the way south we are surprised by whales, probably pilot whales. One is surfacing next to 'Alexandra' and with intervals we see the spouts of small groups of whales.

Slideshow Bunaken

Sail Bunaken

During the sail race from Bitung to Bunaken we have three Indonesian crew on board: Michael, Fonda and Belgis. Tuesday August 18th we start in the afternoon with a short race in Lembeh Strait where there are several navy vessels anchored at the moment. There is 20 knots of wind and it's a tough job for the crew to tighten or to release the right ropes at the right time! The finish of the first race is the start for the overnight passage to the north side of Sulawesi. Again a new experience for the crew, but during the evening the wind is getting less and every now and then we have to start the engine. In the dark we cross the finish near Bunaken Island and sail into Wori Bay to anchor. Well done!

Next morning after a few hours of sleep and a breakfast we visit with the dinghy the village in Wori Bay and back on board we prepare 'Alexandra' and ourselves to be part of the big Bunaken Sail pass with the Fleet admiral: the president of Indonesia. Leading the fleet is the USS aircraft carrier 'George Washington' with some planes and helicopters landing on. Next is an extended convoy of warships from Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, Thailand, Australia and New Zealand, Taiwan, Korea and Japan. After the warships follow the Indonesian governmental ships (customs, fisheries, quarantine, coast guard, etc). Then follow a few 'tall ships' under full sails and next to these a colourful fleet of small motorboats of all types and sizes from Manado town opposite the Bunaken area. All boats are full with laughing and singing people. And at the end of the Sail pass is our group of (international) yachts side to side, and also we wave enthusiastic to the in red and white covered tribune of the president. By surprise several aircraft's and jet fighters fly in formation over the crowds and make spectacular loops in the air.

On the quays we see hundreds and hundreds of people and every spot along the waterside has been taken. Later we hear that there has been hardly any traffic in downtown anymore, and that's an exception because it is always busy in a town like Manado. The only bit of bad luck during the Sail pass has been the dark, almost black clouds from where there has been a downpour for more than half an hour. No problem for the participants and spectators, but the pictures and videos could have been more colourful.

Slideshow Sail Bunaken sailpass

Bitung on north-east Sulawesi

Sunday August 9th after a perfect overnight sailing trip we reach the Rally Bunaken/Sail Indonesia anchorage in Lembeh Strait near the small town of Bitung. On the shore we are welcomed by a lot of flying flags and it's fascinating to see around 40 yachts all close-by anchored in the bay. Holiday has just started and there are musical parades of the different schools with colourfull costumes. These attrack a lot of the people from Bitung and beyond and they all enjoy the spectacle.

We make a tour to the 'Minahasa highlands' where the cooler climate and the fertile vulcano soil are good conditions for growing fruit and vegetables on the special made terraces. On our way we visit one of the caves that the Japanese dug out in the war to protect themselves and their stores and weapons. We pass several monuments and enjoy beautifull views. Later in the week we visit the Tangkoko National Park and make an interesting bush walk.

Friday August 14th there is a welcome dinner for all participants of the Rally. It's a very pleasant evening with local dances and music, a few words and good food of course!

Slideshow Bitung

Ollong family in Hila

On invitation we visit the Ollong family in Hila village on the north shore of Ambon island. First we are met by mr. and mrs. Ollong, who are both born in or near Hila and moved to the Netherlands after the independence of Indonesia. Their youngest son is Riad, born and educated in the Netherlands and since three years living in Hila. He has set up a nutmeg processing business. Farmers from the area of Ambon and from Banda bring their nutmegs to the big sheds behind the house in Hila. There are several wooden dryers to get the wet out of the fruits. The nutmeg fruit contains one hard nut, covered with a red thin layer of the 'flower'. The red parts are processed for the foelie, the nuts itself will be grinded sooner or later for the nutmeg. The foelie has to be checked very intensely and every day 20-30 ladies are working on that.

At 4 o'clock working time is over and because one of the nieces of Riad celebrates her birthday, the ladies can't resist the music for the children's party and start dancing in the garden behind the family house. Also Mariet has to show her talents.

With Riad we visit the Fortress Amsterdam, a fysic remnant of the Dutch occupation of Ambon in the time of the spice trade. It is interesting how a young Dutch entrepreneur with Moluccan roots is working now in the spice trade himself.

Another five minutes' ride with the 'ojek' (betjak) and we arrive at a still older monument: a small mosque, originally build in 1414 en removed in 1664 to the new location. It has a beautifully thatched roof (with leaves of the sagopalm) and all natural building materials. Except for the loudspeaker (and cassette-tape) that have replaced, as in many mosques, the muezzin who calls five times a day the moslims to prayer.

Slideshow Hila

Arrival in Indonesia

In the middle of the night we sail with a half moon behind a cloudy sky. The first islands of the Moluccas (in the east of Indonesia) are behind us and we can see the bright white light on the tip of the harbour of Ambon. When we enter the large and deep bay the wind drops down. After an hour we see everywhere small lights against the mountain: Kota Ambon, the town of Ambon. It's not easy to find a place to anchor because of the deep waters with a steep shoreline. Next morning a small motorboat of the Rally organisation is coming aside to direct us to the the fisherman's wharf where we can moore 'stern to' and proceed quaranteen, immigration and customs. There are a lot of helpfull people to grap our lines and all happens in a relaxed and joyfull atmosphere. At 12 o'clock we hear via loudspeakers on a small mosque near the wharf the midday prayer (30 minutes) and later at 4 pm and 8 pm again. We have to get used to it: Indonesia is a moslim country although there also live quite a lot of christians in the Moluccas. Once on the shore we see they've build a plaza/small village with small restaurants and shops, an Infocentre, etc. It all looks quite nice but most boats of the Rally still have to arrive in Ambon. On saturday afternoon we'll take a Bemo, small bus to town and get our first implressions of the busy citylife. Slideshow Ambon

Two weeks in Darwin

July 13th we arrive in Fannie Bay in Darwin and the first days we're busy with organising our trip to Indonesia. We'll join the Rally Sail Indonesia and in the Darwin Sailing Club we meet some members of the organisation committee who provide us with additional info. We also meet some yachtie-participants and we enjoy drinks and a meal together. Tuesday is the last Briefing of the Rally in the Holiday Inn Hotel. There are interesting presentations and again we get to know more participants including a Dutch and a Belgian crew and two Australians we've met 7 years ago in Mooloolaba.
We have to organise our 'social visa' at the Indonesian Embassy and we get a diver under 'Alexandra' to check if we have any dangerous aquatic growth on the hull before we are allowed to enter one of the Darwin marinas. On Wednesday we are moored in Tipperary Waters marina and use that as a base for jobs and provisioning. There is a bus service running to town, washing machines and again new participants of the Rally to meet.

It's warm in Tipperary marina and we install our sun covers. Saturday July 18th is the formal start of the Rally, but we've decided to postpone our departure and sail straight to Ambon to join the Rally there. On Sunday we visit the beautiful Northern Territory museum with an excellent Aboriginal art collection, a fine display of natural history and on DVD the story of Sweetheart, the saltwater crocodile that has caused so much trouble and death in this area and has finally ended up in the museum (stuffed). We are together with new British friends Susan and Keith from the yacht 'Baccus' who are delayed as well because of the breakdown of their generator just three days ago. After a coffee on the deck of the museum we stroll along to Mindle Beach for the yearly Beer Can Regatta. A lot of locals did their utmost to build something fast and seaworthy from empty beer cans (the children used soft drink cans). After display time in the morning there are the races in the afternoon. For a bit of shade and something to eat and drink we enter the Mindil market with also on Sunday a lot of food stalls and opportunities to grab a souvenir, sun hat, massage or (Aboriginal) painting.

Life in the marina is pleasant and easy although there are still some jobs on the list. Wednesday we can do our shopping in the big Casuarina shopping centre, so that'll leave us with only one run for the fresh veggies and fruit just before we leave. In the marina there are two other Dutch yachts, so there is an exchange of experiences and info. Friday is a public holiday and then Monday July 27th is the first opportunity to get fuel and clear customs to leave Australia. Slideshow Darwin

Farther north to Darwin

Leaving Flinders islands on monday July 6th the first few hours there is hardly any wind, but at around 4 pm we're under sail and going again with good speed. We are still in the shipping lanes, so all is well lit and we sail on into the night and also the moon is still there. Near Cape Grenville we make s short-cut though the Home islands and it is relaxed sailing with good speed. Flat calm waters all the time, hardly any other vessels. Wednesday morning we enter Albany passage, a channel with some Australian history and still a pleasant waterway to pass.

Then the end of the eastern Australian coast is coming into sight: we approach Cape York and see the lighthouse on the small Eborac island just in front of the Cape. It's a beautiful day and we have the current with us, but also a sad day because here we leave the Coral Sea and the Pacific Ocean behind us. For 10 years we've been sailing and living in this part of the world and we are gratefull for the opportunity we've had to experience so many cultures and meet such interesting people. We'll keep those memories in our heart and never forget!

Just past Cape York we are taken by the current and with 8 to over 9 knots(!) we're heading west along white beaches on the coast and beautiful green islands in Endeavour Strait. Next challenge is the Gulf of Carpentaria, a large stretch of water that lays south of us and causes a lumpy sea. The next night, day and following night are uncomfortable, but the wind is still there as is the moon. Two or three vessels pass us (or at least we've seen them) and almost daily we are overflown by an aircraft of the coastwatch. A few times we have contact with them via the VHF radio to report or confirm our position. The coastwatch patrols the northern borders of Australia in case unannounced vessels are coming into the territorial waters.

Friday at 7.00 pm we see the light of Cape Wessel south of us and the sea is getting settled again. There is a fine broad reach wind of 15-18 knots, so we make good progress under full sails. In the night we have the current with us and we are comfortable behind our jib and reacher, both boomed out. Saturday at the end of the day we pass Cape Don and enter the passage between Melville Island and the Coubourg Peninsula. Very important to have the tide with you there and luckily we can make it all through without having to stop. The wind has disappeared so we have to start the engine. In the morning we have only 20 nm to go, slowly we see the skyline of Darwin coming closer and at 10.30 am we arrive in Fannie Bay and see we're in the company of more than 100 other yachts that are already anchored there. Slideshow Top Australia