Van de Stadt Samoa

Marmaris in Turkey

2010-06-22T06:59:00.001-07:00

Along the Turkish south coast with high mountains are plenty of bays to have a refreshing swim or find a good anchorage for the night. In many of the places you'll find al least one small restaurant as in Ciftlik on the Marmaris peninsula. The Turkish staff are very friendly and helpful to grab your lines and offer fresh water and electricity. And at the end of the day is it a real pleasure to enjoy one of the dishes in the al fresco family restaurant. It is here that we meet the first Dutch sailors that have their base in Turkey and sail the Turkish and Greek waters. We hear that Marmaris Yacht Marina is an ideal marina annex shipyard with all facilities for both the yacht as the crew. See www.yachtmarin.com

On June 9th we moor Mediterranean style between other boats with flags from mostly Germany, UK, France and the Netherlands and after an orientation of the marina area and the town of Marmaris, we start preparations for our departure home on June 29. The boat will stay (for the moment) in Turkey and we can close a period of 12 years of living, working and sailing on board 'Alexandra'.

Slideshow Marmaris

Kaş in Turkey

2010-05-31T05:31:00.000-07:00

For the leg from Cyprus to Turkey we need 36 hours (2 days and 1 night) and from far at sea we can see the high mountains that form the south coast of Turkey. In Kaş we find again a very busy fishing harbour where they really need the new marina under construction to be opened next year. Every day is a coming an going of 'gülets', beautiful wooden sail/motorboats that charter along the coast with groups of 8-10 passengers for a few days. There is hardly any space for 'normal' yachts to anchor, but we are lucky and the harbourmaster helps us to moor 'Alexandra' on the quay 'mediterranean style' (drop your anchor in the middle of the harbour and come slowly backwards to have two mooring lines from the back of the boat to the quay). We can use our aluminium gangway again after so many years and that is an easy way to come from the boat to the shore.

Kaş is an charming little town with squares, crowded streets and a lot of shops and restaurants. In the evening you hear live music and it is easy to come into the Turkish atmosphere. Very close to town is an old amphitheatre in very good condition and it happens that on one of the nights there is a musical performance. Unfortunately in Turkish, so we can't completely follow the story, but the songs and costumes are good and interesting. Looking over the stage we can see the sea and the stars that are getting more bright into the night. A beautiful experience.

Slideshow Kaş

Cyprus

2010-05-25T05:25:00.000-07:00

The first stop in de Mediterranean is the small town of Paphos on the westside of the island of Cyprus. We just fit in the small fishing harbour and we are surprised by the amount of tourists that daily come to have a look at the boats. After all it's not too bad to sit down on one of the terraces and enjoy the fresh seafood and the colourful views. And whatever souvenir you want to take back home, you definitively can make a choice in one of the many shops along the quay. We also discover a lot of history in Paphos: the fortress in the harbour itself and the archeological site where they've found the ruins of the houses of some rich Cypriot's from about 2000 years ago. Specially the floors are reasonably well preserved and show colourful mosaics of both fantasy patterns as of pictures from the Greek mythology.

Slideshow Cyprus

Suez Canal

2010-05-16T16:05:00.000-07:00

The last miles before the Suez Canal we sail along the impressive hills of the Sinai peninsula. Near the coast there are many oil platforms and oil-rigs with activity of tugs and tankers. In Suez we enter the anchorage for yachts to do paperwork (and payment) for the passage through the Canal. We get a 'pilot' on board and the first part of the passage is a bit disappointing for us: we sail along erected sand dunes where we see every few km's pontoon bridges on the shore ready to launch in case of war to transport men and material to the Sinai side. At the end of the first day we reach the 'marina' of Ismailia, an obligatory stop-over for the yachts. Ismailia turns out to be a nice place and we stay a few days to visit Cairo and the pyramids of Giza.

The second part of the passage offers more variation on the shore. Our 'pilot' tells us there are seven checkpoints of the Canal authorities where they have to report to during the trip. And again we see lots of military observation posts. But also some small towns and several ferryboats to carry people and cars to the other side of the Canal. Most impressive are the big container ships and tankers that either come towards us or overtake us. The Suez Canal is too small for the big ships to pass each other, so there is a strict scheme for the ocean-going trade to leave in convoys. The north- and southbound convoys daily pass each other on the Great Bitter Lake or via a side channel.

Port Said at the end of the Canal is a big and busy city where many boats are moored and tugs and ferryboats speed through the harbour. Once away from the bustle and the shipping lanes the Red Sea and Egypt are behind us and under sail again we see the sun set into the Mediterranean.

Slideshow Suez

Cairo and the pyramids of Giza

2010-05-14T14:05:00.000-07:00

We leave the boat in the marina of Ismailia, halfway the Suez Canal, and it is a bright sunny morning when we see the three pyramids of Giza (being in a suburb of Cairo). They are huge triangular buildings that stand already there for over 4000 years. They serve both as a tomb and a memorial for the pharaohs that had them build. Over the years still thousands of tourists show up daily to get impressed and admire the pyramids. Most make a ride on a camel around them. Great and intriguing is also the sphinx, a more than life size statue of a man's head (or is it a female head?) on a lion's body. They suspect it is the head of the then ruling pharaoh and the lion symbolises the extra-human powers. Still very mysterious.

The Egyptian museum in Cairo was founded in 1835 to prevent the robbery and export of the finds of the archeological sites, to bring an order into the valuables and to exhibit them to he public. There is so much to be seen now as you walk among mummy's, jewelry, sarcophaguses, eating bowls and all other trinkets that have been found in the pyramids and graves. All is reasonably well ordered by time period in different rooms. Highlights are still the richness's found in the tomb of Toetanchamom, esp. his pure golden death mask. Inside the museum we are not allowed to make pictures but the outside is interesting enough to give you an impression.

Slideshow Cairo

Luxor on the Nile

2010-05-06T06:05:00.000-07:00

From Port Ghalib we make a land trip to Luxor on the Nile, the old Thebe where the rich pharaoh's have held their court for a long time and have built enormous and luxurious temples. On the east bank of the Nile we find the extraordinary temple complex of Karnak with sanctuaries, kiosks, pylons and obelisks dedicated to the Thebean gods and the greater glory of the pharaohs. A confusing but interesting and impressive experience. Luxor temple is in the heart of the modern town itself, a graceful monument with impressive statues and relief's on the walls. In the evening we return to Karnak for a sound and light show about the history of Thebe.

The river Nile still is very important for Egypt and the Egyptians as a means of goods traffic by water, irrigation of land to grow food and to carry the tourists to the historic places. Many cruise ships are moored in three rows along the quays and also small Nile barges with triangle, latin rig, sail are waiting daily for their passengers. While all the bustling life is taking place on the east bank, the pharaohs also made their extensive preparations for a pleasant after life, and they understand this should be on the west bank, the place where the sun is going down and where they can expect a next life. In the then uncultivated area they had made hidden underground well decorated corridors and chambers with food and richness's, and their tombs. Many graves have been found and restored as in the 'Valley of the Kings'.

At the foot of dramatic rugged limestone cliffs that rise nearly 300 m above the desert plain lies the temple of Queen Hatshepsut that blends in beautifully with the cliffs from which it is partially cut. Nice views from there over the Nile valley, the only 5% of the land of Egypt that can be used to grow food. There we see green plants and light coloured farmhouses with people working on the land. The papyrus plant that also grows along the Nile is the basis for making rough sheets of paper. The alabast is another treasure of nature from which craftsmen make fine vases and plates.

Slideshow Luxor

Port Ghalib marina complex

2010-05-04T04:05:00.000-07:00

The first real harbour along the coast of Egypt is Port Ghalib. This is a very modern and new complex with apartments, hotels, big palm trees, restaurants, a 'souks' with souvenir shops and a marina under construction. The first super yachts are anchored already (Mediterranean style, stern to), most of them owned and operated by dive companies with all-in dive tours. After Malaysia this is the first time we have ample fresh water, so we clean Alexandra thoroughly and flush all the sand and dust away (for as long as it lasts).

We have a pleasant stay here and frequent and interesting meetings with the other yachties. We also get to know Diny and Peter van Eijk from the Netherlands, who enjoy a holiday here to meet their son and his friend on the Dutch yacht 'Pegasus' who are sailing a special trip around the world. They don't succeed to catch up together because of too strong northerlies against 'Pegasus'.
More info about their adventures on www.thegreenmiles.nl

Slideshow PortGhalib

Islands, reefs and marsa's in Sudan

2010-04-26T04:26:00.000-07:00

Sailing along the coast of Sudan is easily done in day trips with every time another island, reef or marsa to drop the anchor for a quiet night. But every now and then we have force 6 winds from the north and then you have to stay a bit longer on the anchorage before going on. In Sanganeb reef it is good to snorkel and we find a wreck with beautiful corals and heaps of small fish around. The brick lighthouse on the south tip of the reef is a conspicuous structure and a beacon for the cargo ships to Port Sudan.

A marsa (or sharm or khor) is an inlet from the sea into the land, a sort of lagoon of inner lake with a rather small entrance between two reefs. These are beautiful anchorages sheltered from sea and swell, but not protected from the wind because the land around, mostly desert, is usually low. They are special as we can see in marsa Fijab, marsa Arakiya, khor El Marob (deep and impressive to enter, you are anchored in the middle of the desert with just one camel on the shore) and marsa Umbeila, close to the (unofficial) border with Egypt. Marsa Umbeila is not that big and we can easy land the dinghy to make a walk on the beach, we discover a nomad graveyard, or see a bit more of the hills in the desert. There is a birthday party of one of the yachties in an abandoned cave on the beach. In the evening a dugong (sea cow) is grazing on the grass in the bay and we also spot a turtle.

On top of that there is excellent snorkeling and diving on the reefs in the entrance of the marsa: nicely coloured coral, big fans and a lot of smaller and bigger fish, an underwater paradise, even a bit better than the nearby Elba reef. After a few days we have to go on and we sail and motor sail another night to Dolphin reef where we can swim almost daily with a pot of dolphins (very special). Behind Abu Galawa reef we find another protected anchorage against the northerlies and there is again very fine diving.

Slideshow CoastSudan

Suakin in Sudan

2010-04-02T02:04:00.000-07:00

Within a few days we are in Khor Nawarat in south Sudan, a beautiful reef with good anchorages, and from there it is a pleasant sail along the coast and through Shubuk channel to reach the (small) port of Suakin. The anchorage for the yachts is next to the 'old city' and in passing by 'old Suakin' we get the impression that an earthquake has taken place: a few battered minarets tower above the rubble of ruins and damaged buildings. A great photo opportunity!

In the 'new' city of Suakin the houses don't look so much better, although quite some people seem to live here. We imagine ourselves in the decor of an Arabic film: men walk in long white robes with brown or black sleeveless vests, most of them wear a turban. Also some women on the streets, well wrapped up, but not only in black, there are red and pink garments and one or two ladies with a printed shawl. The men sit on the verandas of their neglected houses or walk in pairs. Most transport of sacks and iron water tanks is done by donkey and donkey carts. Only at the end of the main street, past the small and busy market, there is the parking place with workshops, small restaurants, busses, taxi's and tuk-tuk's. It s really a shame the people don't allow us to take pictures of them: they start screaming and walk away as soon as we take our camera in our hand, because also they have a sharp eye on us, of course!

By taxi we visit the bigger town of Port Sudan, a ride of about an hour on a good bitumen road through the desert. Near Suakin still some neighbourhoods with wooden and corrugated iron hovels, often near a little bit more 'luxury' small mosque, but further on areas with only sand and every now and then some shrub, some camels and one or two people with donkeys. Sudan is an African country with quite dark people and a lot of Arabic influences because of immigration from other Red Sea area's. In the market in Port Sudan the salesmen do their best on the presentation of the fruits and veggies.

Slideshow Suakin

Asmara in Eritrea

2010-03-22T22:03:00.000-07:00

Eritrea means 'land on the Red Sea' and from the port of Massawa it is more than a 3 hour trip with a local minibus over a bitumen road with the higher we get the more hairpin curves and spectacular views! After the third and last 'checkpoint' where our temporary visa are inspected, we run on 2 km height and under dark grey clouds into the capital Asmara at around 5 p.m. Walking through town to our 'pensione' it strikes how clean the streets are. Around this time a lot of people are on their way and we see most of them wear long pants and jackets or jumpers. The difference in temperature with Massawa in the evening is 15-30 degrees and we welcome the 15-30 degrees Celsius after the months of tropical heat.

Eritrea has been a colony of Italy and under the influence of the Italians from ca. 1850 to 1940. Especially in the main street, a wide boulevard with large and tall palm trees on both sides, you imagine yourself in Rome in the 1920-30's. Men in costumes, sometimes with heads, Art Deco buildings, terraces where you can get espresso, capuccino and all kinds of pastry, fashion shops and italian restaurants with pasta, pizza, fish, etc. This is 'little Roma' in Africa with African prices, very cheap! And dark people of course. Daily at 5 p.m. all people come to this boulevard to walk and talk, have a drink and bite, and hear the gossip. Young boys sell chewing gum, cigarettes, toothpicks, tissues and coins with the head of Mussolini ...!

Halfway the main boulevard is a magnificent cathedral, with traditional furnishing, and with a bell tower that we went up by over a hundred steps. At the schoolyard next to the cathedral the young children have their playtime and they wear white aprons with sleeves over their own clothes, in a very old-fashioned catholic and Italian way!

Very modern is a reasonably well organized recycle 'junk yard', a collection place for old iron, old wood, barrels, drums, cans, etc. etc. with around the yard many workshops where people are hammering, sawing, beating, welding. From the oildrums the bottoms are removed and then they make small oilsquirts from it. Also we saw 'new' ovens, soupladdles and heaps of reasonably sorted parts, screws, bolts, rods, you name it. An active recycle market from which we in Europe can follow their example.

On Sundays the steamtrain rides the route that the Italians have laid out and build and that is restored about 10 years ago. It's a great experience with tremendous views over valleys, villages, the railway itself with some 20 tunnels and viaducts along the road. The trip takes from 08.00 till 13.00 hours. During the ride we have to stop several times to load coals and water, while the passengers get Eritrean coffee burned, grinded and brewed in the traditional way.

Slideshow Asmara

Red Sea

2010-03-16T16:03:00.000-07:00

On March 7th in the early morning we sail through the Strait of Bab el Mandeb, the southern access to the Red Sea. There is a brisk SE wind of 20-25 knots (force 6 Beaufort) and soon we surf over the waves that get higher all the time. Our speed increases as the wind is tightening and we feel: this is spectacular sailing! Although we are disappointed that the colour of the Red Sea waters didn't change. Our first anchorage we find behind an island in the Bay of Assab, the former main port of Eritrea. The winds keep blowing and there are too many waves to go ashore and explore the new continent. Next days are with a same wind from same direction and we make good progress with anchorages in between, that are protected against the big swells but we hear the wind howl through the rigging all the time. We follow the interesting coastline of south Eritrea with dark (volcanic?) hills covered with thin layers of almost white sand.

On Friday morning around 11.00 o'clock we see a sort of brownish red curtain along the coast and the wind is getting more hot and more dry. Very slowly the brown-red cloud is approaching and passing, we feel a light tingle on our face, arms and legs. When the fog has disappeared, we find a reddish layer of dust and fine sand on the deck, on the sails and everywhere on Alexandra. All around us fine red dust has been descended on the waves as well and we are sailing in a red glow, in a Red Red Sea.

The port Massawa in Eritrea has suffered a lot from the war with neighbouring Ethiopia that the coastal areas with harbours to the Red Sea claims as part of Ethiopia and not as an independent state. Many (previous interesting) buildings are probably irreparable destroyed.

Slideshow RedSea

Aden in Yemen

2010-03-03T10:30:00.000-08:00

For the last leg in the Gulf of Aden we have a good wind and hardly any traffic. On February 26th we anchor in front of Aden town just in time to hear from the several mosques the call for the Friday prayers. Aden is not really a clean city and that also applies for the harbour where ocean going ships unload containers and refuel with diesel. The south of Yemen has been a colony of England (Aden has its own 'Big Ben'), the north has been occupied by the Turks. Since the independence of the Republic and the going together of north and south Yemen in 1991, both area's don't get on very well. This has resulted in riots in 1994 and that threat is still there.

Large parts of the city are build against the bare volcanic hills. We are happy to have a good guide and driver and we make a tour to the impressive water reservoirs. After a heavy rainfall of five hours they are now filled up for one third. The waterworks have been build probably during the Ottoman era (before 1800). Near the fish market the fleet of fishing boats has just entered and there is a choice of everything. In 'Arab town' it is always busy and crowded. Most of the transport of the merchandise is still done by cart and camel. On several of the public buildings we see a portrait of the president, de flag of Yemen is red-white-black.

Slideshow Aden

Al Mukalla in Yemen

2010-02-24T02:24:00.000-08:00

Approaching the coast we see large sand dunes: the end of the desert. Closing in you see small white buildings with open windows, this is the beginning of Al Mukalla, a medium sized town halfway the south coast of Yemen. In the small harbour the American yacht 'Bingo' and us are directed to the once yellow Q(uaranteen) buoy. An agent is waiting to organize the customs and immigration formalities (very friendly and easy). From immigration we get a shore pass to visit town. It takes a short taxi ride and first thing that attracts attention are the women that are dressed up completely in black: a large burka inclusive gloves so that only the eyes are visible. The men wear nicely woven sarongs and light coloured shirts, we also see several turbans. Making pictures of people is 'not done', so we restrict ourselves to some impressions taken from the taxi and walking along the boulevard. In the supermarket there is an ample choice of foods and outside the building is a stall with fresh fruit and vegetables.

In the harbour you find all sorts of small and bigger boats and specially in the morning it's a busy and lively spectacle. In the harbour mouth there is always a patrol boat with machine gun, checking incoming and outgoing traffic. But the water is not very clean in the harbour, it smells and we don't like the bird's droppings on our deck. So our next anchorage is 15 nm further on the coast in an bay in a beautiful piece of desert. Some women are chasing a small herd of goats and we see people walking on the beach, they turn out to be bedouins.

Slideshow Mukalla

Indian Ocean

2010-02-19T19:02:00.000-08:00

February 10 we leave the Maldives and our heading for the moment is the harbour of Solalah in Oman. There are 14-20 knots from NE, but the sea is very unsettled, so life on board is not comfortable. In the night there are big and dark clouds but not a drop of rain, although 'Alexandra' can use a good flush. We make excellent progress. The Indian Ocean is big and empty, just a distant trader now and then. All at once there is a pod of about 30 dolphins next to he boat. They are racing and jumping to catch up with the bow, always great fun! And alomost every evening there is a slow and colourfull sunset.

After a week on the high seas we are hailed by a warship of the coalition forces and we give our destination and ship's data. We have entered the area where pirates have their field of activity. If we should see anything suspect we are requested to report position etc. to one of the warships. But it stays very quiet around us and also the wind is dying out, so we have to start the engine.

Once under the coast of Oman we decide to proceed to Yemen because of the crowded harbour of Solalah. Both on the day as by night we hear regularly via the VHF the communication between the ocean going traders and tankers and the warships. As soon as a captain has spotted a suspect vessel or has a suspicion of a pirate mothership, he'll report that to one of the warships and they mostly send out a plane to investigate more close. We hear two times of an attempt to board a tanker and also then there is a lot of ommunicationa and action. Till now not one of the attempts to hijack has been successfull. The suspect 'skifs' are mostly seen in the traffic routes for the ocean going trade and they are 80 nm south of us. Along the coast of Yemen we come across some fishermen and an odd small trader.

Slideshow Indian Ocean

Uligan island in Maldives

2010-02-09T07:37:00.000-08:00

In the most northern atoll of the Maldives in front of Uligan island we've dropped the anchor. February, 1st around 9 a.m. a motorboat with six officials is approaching and when all are aboard 'Alexandra' we can do customs, immigration and quarantine at the same time. Ship's papers and crew lists are asked in 4 to 6 copy and preferable provided with ship's stamp and signature of master. But everybody is very helpful, so within half an hour we are officially welcomed in the Republic of the Maldives.

Next to the boat the reef begins and the snorkeling is excellent with good coral and heaps of fish that are nog shy at all. In the morning we see the tips of a manta ray that is swimming on the reef. Next minute we are in the water and the manta ray is passing several times really very close, what a majestic and graceful sight!

Uligan village looks a bit dull with sandy roads and high walls around the courts next to the houses. There are no cars, but we see a lot of shiny motorbikes. A small harbour with breakwater is under construction and we can moor our dinghy on the sturdy cay that is finished already. Alongside one of the sandy roads is 'the office' and here we can ask and arrange everything we want. Opposite the office they have a plastic garden table and chairs where we can use internet for free and fill in papers for departure etc. It's a meeting place for the yachties and for the local guys who have a great service to bring new diesel on board the yachts. The Maldives are an Islamic country and the women wear head scarfs, also the girls leaving the school are dressed in white trousers, white skirts, white blouses long sleeved and white head scarfs.

During our stay we make a trip with the local motorboat to two other islands in the atoll where we visit a school, the local boat builders and have a lunch in a small and cosy restaurant. On one of the beautiful beaches of Uligan we have a potluck dinner: the boys have fish, chicken and beef on the rack over the wood fire and the yachties have prepared a dish from their own country: pasta, salads, pancakes and chocolate cookies.

Slideshow Maldives http://picasaweb.google.com/pc8096/Maldives?feat=directlink

Bay of Bengal

2010-02-03T08:31:00.000-08:00

The leg from Thailand via Sri Lanka to the Maldives (SW of India) is 1550 nm (nautical miles) long, ca. 3000 km, and our first experience with the Indian Ocean. In Thailand we've spent two days in the Nicobar islands, a very commercial happening with over 50 live-a-boards and other dive companies, hopping daily along the several dive sites (almost queuing). Not an attractive place although the water is clear, the coral is colourful and there is quite a lot of fish. To pick up a mooring in one of the against swell protected bays to spend the night is a (too) expensive experience, so time to leave!

Going west there is initially just a little wind, but with some extra sails it is possible to get a speed of 4 knots and we can stop the engine. In the nights there are several 'squalls', short fierce pouring's with a lot of wind, they last about 30 minutes and then all is getting back to 'normal'. On approach of Sri Lanka the wind is getting stronger and we have to make two reefs in the main and reduce the headsail. The hours last long and there are also a lot of container ships and tankers around. We are happy to use our new AIS system where we see on the computer screen which boats are near to us, what is their speed and when they'll pass us on what distance. If the big ships are too close to Alexandra, we have to adjust our course because the container ships never change their direction and we don't know if they have seen our small yacht on their radar. Also a call on the VHF radio is never answered, is our experience.

Past Sri Lanka we sail a few hours in the lee of the island, but then the wind starts blowing again through the strait between Sri Lanka and India. The sea gets rough and unsettled, we tack 70-80 degrees to the wind (20-24 knots) and it is a quite unpleasant trip. Happily we have in the night the light of the full moon and after 24 hours the wind is dying out and we can relax again. In a few hours we can shake out the reefs and in the late evening of January 31st we motor into the most northern lagoon of the Maldives and anchor in front of the (small) island of Uligan. In the morning we see that there are about 20 other yachts anchored around us.

Phuket Thailand

2010-01-12T12:01:00.000-08:00

Phuket is the peninsula in the southwest of Thailand and since the '70s this area is assigned to be the resort island for tourists. Chalong is just south of Phuket city and for cruisers this is the place to do customs and immigration. It's also easy here to rent a car or motorbike to explore the countryside. Intriguing is the 'Big Buddha' on the hill that is looking down on the bay. It shows to be an extended complex under construction. Because of the implantation of the eyes (real sapphires that took a few year to collect donations) the head of the Buddha is in scaffolding. Also stairwells and galleries are in the planning. The 'Wat Chalong' is a temple complex nearby with six buildings in a park area. Every temple is devoted to another Buddha, monk or saint and the buildings are richly furnitured with golden statues, big paintings, sculptures and vases with fresh flowers. Outside are tables with facilities to burn candles or incense. Every here and there we see monks in orange habits.

Phuket has its own amusement park, a sort of Disneyland in a real Thai theme: FantaSea. In the early evening we make a short tour in the park that is well decorated and illuminated. There are heaps of fantasies and realities e.g. two white tigers in their luxury 'apartment'. There is an international buffet in an enormous and royal decorated 'salle de banquet'. After that we enter the real big theater in the 'Palace of the Elephants' to see on and around the stage a turbulent and spectacular show with beautiful costumes, sound and light effects, acrobatics, a glance over Thai history and culture, and a lot of elephants.

On the west coast of Phuket peninsula are about ten bays with white sandy beaches and above them tower the hotels and apartment complexes. No palm trees grow on the beaches to provide shadow, so some hundred parasols next to every two reclining chairs offer a colourful sight from the water. In the evening you shuffle with the crowd of tourists along the hundreds of little shops and restaurants, most of them with terraces and good music on a pleasant volume level. That is changing when you enter the 'girlie-bars': here is modern (rock)music and everywhere you see girls in short skirts and high heels 'dancing' on the counters. Just take a barstool and order a drink. Half of the visitors are just tourists curious about the Thai 'nightclubs' and the other half of the visitors and young guys and men who make their appointment for later in the evening. On the beach we buy with a few other Dutch yachties a big paper lantern that through the heat of a burning fuse slowly goes up in the air with all our wishes for the new year.

Slideshow Thailand

X-mas in Sunset Valley

2009-12-24T12:24:00.000-08:00

On Christmas Eve we have an invitation on the Sunset Valley estate where two Dutch sailers have build a lovely and characteristic resort. From the deck of their own spacious wooden bungalow we have a nice view over the paddies, the ricefields, with a deep red sunset at the end of the day. It is a party with Dutch sailors and (ex-)Dutchies that are living now on Langkawi island.

It is an evening with a lot of music starting with christmas carols and then we try to find at least one song of every province. There is ample and talentfull accompaniment: Ria on the keyboard, Carla with her squeezebox and At and Andre with several harmonica's. Most melodies sound familiar but the lyrics are not always there. At a certain moment there were even some couples dancing on the deck! There is beer and wine and snacks and sushi's as a start, followed by chicken soup, several salads and freshly baked 'baguettes'. As a desert we are offered a tropical fruit salad and home made cake, so we look back at a cosy and very Dutch evening. Thank you Ria and Andre!

See www.langkawi-holidayhouses.info for an intereseting holiday and www.tprlangkawi.com for those who want to invest in an appartment in a luxury, practical and lovely setting.

Slideshow SunsetValley

Langkawi

2009-12-19T19:12:00.000-08:00

The most northern island along the coast of Malaysia is a real sailor's paradise! The bays are so beautiful to pass through with heaps of good anchorages and small beaches to have a 'sundowner' with other yachties. The busses of the island tour bring us to places where we are welcomed with music and dance, we have to taste the local snacks and dishes and we hear the legend of the princess Mahsuri (10th century).

Telaga Harbour is another bay on Langkawi island and from there we visit the very professional cable car complex, a steep ride to the big round viewing platforms that are connected with a very long hanging bridge with again spectacular views. A real good experience! Everywhere on Langkawi are cosy and small restaurants with terraces on the beach or along the harbour with a choice of local or western meals (pizza's, steaks). They are a good opportunity to welcome new sailors (esp. the Dutch ones) and say farewell to our friends of the Rally.

Kuah is the main town of Langkawi and here you'll find all sorts of shops and supermarkets to replenish your supply of food and chandlery. Tabac and alcohol are duty-free, so we have to think in advance of our next legs through Islamic countries where you can't buy a drop of alcohol. Also in the Suez canal we can expect authorities that are not happy with just the legal fees and need some cigarettes for letting us pass through. The sea eagle with his white head and brown wings, we see them daily all around the island chase on fish, is the symbol of Langkawi and on 'Eagle square' in Kuah there is a enormous sea eagle statue looking over the bay.

Slideshow Langkawi

Penang Island

2009-12-03T12:03:00.000-08:00

Where the Malacca Strait is getting wider, you'll find Penang island linked with a 3km long bridge to mainland Malaysia. With about 20 yachts we are anchored behind a small island southeast of Penang. On November 30th we sail in a small parade together under the bridge to the Tanjong City marina in the middle of historic Georgetown. In the evening we are awaited by a group of 25 young drummers who perform a spectacular show on their big and deep-sounding drums. Also local dansers in beautiful costumes bring a colourfull and dazzling program of dances.

A compulsary stop on the Rally bustours is a visit to a project developer with for foreigners interesting investments in an appartment, a house or a villa. There is a wide choice at attractive prices. The slogan of Malaysia on this subject is 'MM2H' (make Malaysia your second home) and it is made easy for cruisers to import their yacht without any problems or (tax)rules. We finish the tour with an excellent buffet of Penang food and the performance of two lions that dance on the music of drum and cymbals to attract our attention.

The top of Penang hill you reach by a train that has to cover a very steep trail. The ride takes 30 minutes and then we have a magnificent view over Georgetown and the strait between Penang and the mainland. Interesting on the hill is the Hindoe temple painted in the characteristic soft colours. The descent by train again is quite exciting, but is made without problems.

Kek Lok Si is an extended Buddhist temple complex with several buildings, stairs, towers, galleries and pavillions. You can walk for hours and still discover new areas and details, very fascinating. The local fish restaurant near the marina is an experience because of the open kitchen, the simple set-up of the tables and the excellent taste of the fish, prawns and mussels.

Slideshow Penang

Malacca and Malacca Strait

2009-11-27T11:27:00.000-08:00

In the 17th century Malacca was a stopover for the big ships of the Dutch Eastindian Company (VOC) on their way to Batavia and the Maluku spice islands. They could take in fresh water, meat and vegetables and also there were opportunities for trade. There are still several (mostly restored) buildings from that period e.g. the church and the 'stadthuys' (town hall). In 2008 the United Nations have decided to declare Malacca a world heritage place and so Malaysia got some extra money to restore the historical buildings and sites of the Portuguese, the Dutch and the English period. In the 'stadthuys' is an extended and interesting museum where a lot of 'souvenirs' of the VOC and Holland have got a place.

In Jonkerstraat you walk along small old buildings with mostly shops on the ground floor. At Low Yong Mow, one of the many Chinese eateries we have a breakfast with dim sum's, these are filled packages with delicious pork or shrimp meat and vegetables that are steamed in big round baskets. With it you drink jasmine tea as much as you want.
Very interesting is the museum of Cheng Ho, the great Chinese seafarer who by order of the emperor of China from 1406 on with a very extended merchant fleet discovered and charted the world. In seven journeys he visited many countries, did business and started diplomatic ties of friendship and trade. There are more and more suspicions that Columbus must have had sea maps that have been drawn by cartographers engaged by Cheng Ho and further traded on. In Malacca Cheng Ho had established a large depot for his trade goods and in between his sea travels he must have lived and done business here.
From the hill you have a nice view over the city and strait and in the ruins of the old St. Paul's church you find a collection of tombstones of Dutch citizens of the 17th century. At the foot of the hill there is one gate left of the fortress that the Dutch have build in the time of the VOC.

One day sailing to the north we meet bad weather and flee into Admiral marina near Port Dickson. The marina is part of an impressive apartment complex and has a stylish colonial clubhouse with a restaurant and bar. And we can use the swimming pool for a refreshing dip! There is not a lot of wind along the coast northbound and with a stop over in Port Klang, the busy harbour of Kuala Lumpur, and an overnighter with a lot of lightning, we reach Penang island.

Slideshow Malacca

Puteri Harbour marina

2009-11-15T15:15:00.000-08:00

You get a good impression of the new and grand developments in building when you enter the very spacious and luxury Puteri Harbour marina. In the background you see the new State administration offices. The modern 'marina clubhouse' is air conditioned, has a roomy reception with very friendly staff and on the first floor you'll find an extended maquette with the future developments in the area. A beautiful garden with palms in front of the clubhouse offers shadowy patches and the views from the terrace of the restaurant are the best.

And then the surprise when we discover there are three more yachts with (ex-)Dutchies from which two are our friends Hans and Fien from 'Pelikaan' of Sydney! We have a sushi-party on board 'Alexandra' and get to know the nice couple Rob and Jacqueline of 'Mary Eliza'. When there is a request from the marina management to join a small sail pass, we decide to go together as Dutchies and decorate both the boat as ourselves. Hans of Fien makes a top impression with his Thai cap and also Fien succeeds in a very subtle hair covering. Rob turns out to be an excellent trumpet player and it doesn't take long that a canon of real Dutch songs sounds over the Johor Strait. Also Henk and Loes of 'Gentle Lady' who emigrated 50 years ago to western Australia, join in enthusiastically. Coming back into the marina Rob starts with some international songs and also on board the other boats we hear singing and see them clapping. Great fun everywhere!

Another evening we have a musical session by several yachties and also Rob is playing some real good tunes there. The known songs are joined in by all of us and dancing is very popular under yachties. The staff of the marina has started a tasty BBQ and again we have a very good time together.
On November 12th we start with a serenade of Dutch birthday songs on trumpet and in the evening we have a good party on the jetty next to 'Alexandra'. The upside down dinghy we can use as a table and Hans is like a magician when he suddenly pours light into a few metre of plastic hose by which the area is cosy lit. Several shipcooks succeeded to offer some fine bites to accompany the drinks.

Slideshow PuteriMarina

Sail Malaysia Rally

2009-11-09T18:00:00.000-08:00

In Danga Bay near Puteri marina in the south of Malaysia we have some interesting presentations about sailing in Malaysia and exhibitions about the future developments in the state of Johore. Sometimes you get the impression of the Dubai area here: futuristic buildings for working and living: if anybody is interested in investing in a luxury appartment, you should do here and now!

In the evenings we were offered very good buffets with all kinds of local food, but the first night we were happy to have our umbrella's with us while the rain is pouring down. Happily we could place tables and chairs on the roofed veranda's, so we still could enjoy the fine food. The next evening the weather was working with us and all the dancing and performances worked out very well. Especially the finale where all the yachties were invited to join the professional dancers was a great happening together.

We join the tour in and around Johore Bahru. The Sultan Abu Bakar mosque is a fine piece of architecture build between 1892 and 1900 with a lot of detail as is the State Secretariat building with the 64-metre-high square tower overlooking the city centre. Everything you want to know about the growing and culture of pineapples you'll find in the special 'Muzium Nanas'. Then we find ourselves on the most southern tip of Malaysia and SE-Asia and we are overlooking the Johor and Singapore Straits with always a lot of boats at anchor. The new Secretariat Buildings and Administrative Center of the State Johore are planned in a new area where there is room enough to build as if all building have to be palaces. Very impressive is also the monument where you can read the history of the southern part of Malaysia.

Slideshow SailMalaysia

Singapore

2009-11-05T11:00:00.000-08:00

A short flash back to our entering of Singapore on October 30th. In the early morning we see the contours of Singapore city and the anchored tankers and containervessels. There is a lot of activity on the oil rig platforms at the beginning of Johor Strait. On the northern border (the Malaysian side) Singapore has set up a fence and we see signs and hear tapes with the message not to enter the island illegal. If Singapore would allow all people that are interested to come and live there, the island the population would almost double and the island is already too small for the recent inhabitants.

We exchange our Asia airmiles for a ride with the new big wheel in the middle of Singapore. The recently placed Christmas decorations make the streets festive. We are quite lucky with the weather during our airtrip: it is not raining but there are dark clouds hanging around. Just before we enter the cabin of the wheel with 8-10 other visitors we get an audioguide that corresponds with a map and the area we can see with the most important buildings and higlights of Singapore.

Very slowly our cabin rises and we see the sea and the different area's. Singapore is the 'lion city' and the 'merlion' is the symbol of Singapore, a statue half mermaid and half lion. In the new harbour there are many buildings and works under construction. Interesting is the open air stadion where the tribunes are on the land and the football field is on a big pontoon in the water. We've heard that there is also a pontoon with tenniscourts that can replace the footballfield pontoon.

In the end we get a good sight on the 'dourians', the two new theatre complexes in Singapore. The dourian is a tropical fruit with a special scent (some say they stink) and special taste (some call it heavenly). With these special shape and look Singapore hopes to get attention to her theatres like the Opera House in Sydney and the Stopera in Amsterdam. The 'spikes' on the dourians are also very practical sunshades on the side and roof of the buildings.

Slideshow Singapore

Belitung and farewell Indonesia

2009-10-29T12:00:00.000-07:00

Belitung island is situated on the southeast coast of Sumatra and the welcome is warm and friendly. There are beautiful and sometimes funny presentations with music and dance by both adults as by the children of the island. Every day on arrival at the beach our dinghy's are well lined up on the shore and the activities in the air attract a lot of local people and families. With regularity students take initiative to a conversation with us to practice their english. Of course they want a friend to take a picture of them together with the foreign yachties.
The welcome dinner, also the farewell party for the participants of the Rally through Indonesia, is a wonderful event with special music, the exchange of presents, an elaborate Indonesian buffet and again a lot of dances and music. The expectation is that we also make a contribution to the dances.

By bus we visit a layang layang festival, a kite happening with kites in all colours, shapes and sizes. It is a feast to walk around and see the the movements in the air. In a traditional wooden house with veranda beautiful girls perform a welcoming dance after which we are invited to have lunch. We sit in small groups on the floor around a bowl of rice and several dishes of meat and vegetables. According to the tradition we have to eat the food with our (right)hand, so no cuttlery has been supplied. Interesting and wonderful is our next visit to the Kampong Bali, the village where people from the island Bali live and keep their traditions alive. Music, dances, special snacks and then the youth of the village that try to scare us off with their real big and terrifying puppets, bad spirits probably. Lots of fun both by the youth as by the visitors!

After the last formalities with the Indonesian authorities we can leave. The first two nights and days we have no wind at all, so the engine has to do the job. We also pass once more the equator. Wednesday evening we approach the Strait of Singapore and we have to do a good watch to cross the shipping lanes without accidents. There is some breeze around here and during the rest of the night we continue under sail. In the morning we can see how many tankers, freight and container ships are anchored and also in the shipping lanes we see pass big vessels every 15 minutes. We follow the coastline of Singapore and sail into Johor river with Singapore on our right and Malaysia on our left side. A lot of harbour activities and we are happy to be moored in a spacious berth in the new and luxury Puteri marina near Johor Bahru in Malaysia.

Slide show Belitung

Java

2009-10-18T16:00:00.000-07:00

With a small group of sailors of the Rally we make an organized tour by coach over central Java. In Solo we visit a batik atelier annex showroom. By waxing patterns on cotton cloth and immerse them in dye baths of different colour, beautiful designs appear.

The Hindu temples of the Prambanan temple complex are the best preserved remnants of the Hindu period in Java, although the restauration is still under construction, also due to an earthquake a few years ago. Most impressive are the sculptures on the great Shiva temple. In the evening we enjoy in an outdoor theatre the colourfull and spectacular Ramayana musical/ballet, telling the story of Rama and Shinta.

A visit to the Kraton of the sultan, his palace, is one of the highlights in Yogyakarta. The guards of the Kraton, you can regocnize them on their blue tunik, brown batik sarong and on their back fastened 'kris' (short dagger), are volunteers, faithfull and wise men, who are on duty once in a fortnight.

The Borobudur is a intriguing monument, expressing the Buddhist vision of the cosmos in stone, build on a hill. There are 9 terraces with fine and detailed mural sculptures, every level expressing a next step on the way to Nirvana, the Buddhist heaven. The higher we come the more serene-faced Buddhas (in stone) you encounter and on the top three terraces you find the so-called stupas.

We also visit local restaruants, ateliers for wood, leather and silver, small shops, a museum and every night we are expected in a good and welcoming hotel. A pleasant and interesting week away from the floating home and discovering some treasures of central Java.

Slide show Java

Karimunjawa

2009-10-11T09:00:00.000-07:00

The archipelago of Karimunjawa is situated 80 km north of Samarang on the north coast of Java and we are anchored on the west side of the main island Karimunjawa. On Saturday we are invited for a welcoming party and everybody has done its utmost to make it a succesfull evening. There are a few speeches, a local singer, a tastefull buffet and a gamelan orchestra with not only female dancers but also a nice group of young and cool male dancers. After the meal wonderfully dressed figures from the old legends appear on stage and there are real fights between the good and bad characters. Once of a sudden we are also part of the play and with a wooden mask tight on our nose we do our best to tune in and dance with the other heroes.

Sunday morning we meet the local people that are gathered on the central square in town. Once more there is gamelan music, dances, tai kwondo fights and something to eat and to drink. These are also festivities for the inhabitants of Karmunjawa and we can see how they enjoy the the presentations. Quite a lot of the ladies have prepared fish and snacks and small bites and we try the local specialities. After the happening we make a 'jalan jalan', a walk through the village and end up in the harbour with the fishing boats.

Slideshow KarimanJawa

Bali

2009-10-04T16:55:00.000-07:00

Sailing along the north coast of Bali we see several high mountains on the island, some of which with vulcanic power, an impressive sight. Lovina Beach is again a gathering place for participants of the Sail Indonesia Rally. On the tour over north Bali we visit a Hindoe temple, the local market and the museum of the area. Lunch starts with the tasting of several beers of the local brewery Storm, followed by an excellent buffet. In the peacefull gardens and buildings of the Buddhist monestary we can stretch our legs, after which we visit a silversmith family before taking a refreshing dive in the baths feed by a hot water spring (just below the temperature of the environment).

In the evening on the beach we sit next to the gamelan orchestra that performs traditional Balines music on gongs, xylophones, drums and flutes. Handsome and slender girls in colourfull costumes make complicated dancepasses, athletic headnods and subtile fingermovements. We experience a lot of atmosphere and on friday night there is a spectaculair music and dance show to welcome the complete sailing fleet, followed by an extended and good dinner in one of the restaurants on the 'boulevard'.

Sunday evening we start with a colourfull performance of the very young Balinese talent, after which we take a seat before or behind the screen of the 'wajang' theatre, also build on the beach. Behind the screen an oil lamp is burning and the wajang storyteller has been settled with his 'kulits' (the flat wajang puppets of dried animal skin). Next to him are the musicians of the gamelan orchestra with their instruments. It's a pity we don't understand 'Bahasa Indonesia (the Indonesian language), but with a lot of music and an extended story of the narrator the different characters of the old legends come as shadows on the screen to life. The presentation can take for hours while the spectators empathize with the good and the bad fellows to pick up, chastened by the wisdom of their heroes, their daily lifes again.

Slideshow Bali

Lombok

2009-09-26T18:00:00.000-07:00

Medana Bay on the NW corner of Lombok Island is an 'official' stop in the Sail Indonesia Rally. There is good and easy anchoring in the bay, there is a fantastic dinghy dock and under the palms is a pleasant meeting place where you also find the very helpful staff of Medana marina with info about tours and interesting sights in the area. The village next to the marina is well involved with the activities of the Rally: there is help with getting fresh water and diesel on board, there is a laundry service, there are meals cooked every day and there are small shops with local souvenirs.

An other project of the village is the replant of a reef in the bay. Everyone can plant a small piece of coral on a block of concrete and write on it the name of your boat (or wife or grandchild) and bring the block to the designated area so that in 2, 5 or 10 years there will be a healthy reef in the bay again that also will attract fish and other sea creatures. There is a lot of interest from the sailors in the Rally to participate is this initiative.

During the welcoming ceremony we are well surprised by the many beautiful costumes and traditional music. The performance is very professional and a fascinating show. The dinner for the participants and the local representatives and guests is vegetarian with fresh cooked fish and fantastic fish-sate's. Also the various vegetables are tastefully prepared. A real moslim band with head covered moslima dancers give a good swing with every now and then some Arabic accents.

Slideshow Lombok

Rinca and Komodo

2009-09-16T16:00:00.000-07:00

Rinca and Komodo are hilly and at the moment very dry islands, but also beautiful and sandwiched between Flores and Sumbawa. Both islands are part of the 'Komodo National Park' and famous for the very big reptiles who live there, the 'Komodo dragons'. These are world's biggest lizards that can grow over 3 meter and can weigh over 100 kg. They feed on animals as big as deer and water buffalo.

On both islands you can make a walk or longer hike under guidance of a parkranger. He knows where the big lizards mostly stay and to find the 'waterholes' are where the deer and buffalo's come to drink. We make two walks at the end of the day and beside the 'dragons' we get a good impression of the vegetation and the other animals that live in the park.

Slideshow Komodo

Northwest Flores

2009-09-13T12:00:00.000-07:00

Linggeh is a fishing village where we are welcomed very heartily. During the day some of the fishermen come along with their canoes to have a chat and to see if there is something interesting to get from the foreign yachties. Later also the children want to see the tourists on the big sailing boats. Late afternoon we go with the crew of two oher yachts to the shore and for both parties it's an interesting and pleasant happening.

Something different is the bit bigger town of Labuanbajo where we are surprised by the colourfull traditional boats that are moored in the harbour. Most yachts are anchored just outiside the harbour and we make use of the services of some local young guys that bring the tourists to town with their 'adjusted' fishingboats. On the way we are offered several souvenirs like necklaces and wooden masks.

Slideshow Flores

Traditional boatbuilders

2009-09-07T11:00:00.000-07:00

South of Sulawesi is situated the atol and island of BoneRate. The inhabitants of 'Pulau Bonerate' have a reputation for the traditional wooden boats that are build here. On the beach next to the village are about 50 small and big crafts under construction. Everywhere you hear men sawing and hammering, but of course there is always time for social talk or explanation about the art of boatbuilding. Orders both for newly build or repairs, a new bow for example, are taken and carried out in the traditional way.

Slideshow Bonerate

Hoga Harbour

2009-09-05T10:43:00.000-07:00

August 30th we pick up a mooring in the quiet bay of Hoga island. There is a nice white beach where we meet the other yachties in the evenings around a bonfire. We celebrate a 40 year wedding anniversary with a sunset dinner on the beach. And it's great snorkeling and diving on the the reef just a few hundred meters from the anchorage.

A visit to the steltvillage of ex seanomads is an experience! In former days the families lived on their boats and formed 'floating villages'. With the houses on stelts there still is a close relation between the people and the sea. Most men still go in the day or in the night to the sea to catch fish. Next evening we meet Geertje, a Dutch lady who runs a small diving enterprise, but who also already for 14 year is helping the ex seanomads with schools, teachers and a few small (commercial) projects. A difficult but interesting initiative.

Slideshow Hoga Harbour

Manado and Bunaken

2009-08-29T08:24:00.000-07:00

The day after the Sailpass we take the dinghy into Manado to visit the postoffice, the museum and the market. In the afternoon we leave the city behind and sail back to Wori Bay. There we can join a dive boat to Bunaken island and we make a few dives op the drop-off full with corals and we see three big turtles!

The 25th of August we start our way back to the south. Coming from Maluku we've had the current and winds with us, but now they are both against us and it takes us five full days to sail to the Wakatobi marine national park on the southeast tip of Sulawesi. On the way south we are surprised by whales, probably pilot whales. One is surfacing next to 'Alexandra' and with intervals we see the spouts of small groups of whales.

Slideshow Bunaken

Sail Bunaken

2009-08-20T04:50:00.000-07:00

During the sail race from Bitung to Bunaken we have three Indonesian crew on board: Michael, Fonda and Belgis. Tuesday August 18th we start in the afternoon with a short race in Lembeh Strait where there are several navy vessels anchored at the moment. There is 20 knots of wind and it's a tough job for the crew to tighten or to release the right ropes at the right time! The finish of the first race is the start for the overnight passage to the north side of Sulawesi. Again a new experience for the crew, but during the evening the wind is getting less and every now and then we have to start the engine. In the dark we cross the finish near Bunaken Island and sail into Wori Bay to anchor. Well done!

Next morning after a few hours of sleep and a breakfast we visit with the dinghy the village in Wori Bay and back on board we prepare 'Alexandra' and ourselves to be part of the big Bunaken Sail pass with the Fleet admiral: the president of Indonesia. Leading the fleet is the USS aircraft carrier 'George Washington' with some planes and helicopters landing on. Next is an extended convoy of warships from Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, Thailand, Australia and New Zealand, Taiwan, Korea and Japan. After the warships follow the Indonesian governmental ships (customs, fisheries, quarantine, coast guard, etc). Then follow a few 'tall ships' under full sails and next to these a colourful fleet of small motorboats of all types and sizes from Manado town opposite the Bunaken area. All boats are full with laughing and singing people. And at the end of the Sail pass is our group of (international) yachts side to side, and also we wave enthusiastic to the in red and white covered tribune of the president. By surprise several aircraft's and jet fighters fly in formation over the crowds and make spectacular loops in the air.

On the quays we see hundreds and hundreds of people and every spot along the waterside has been taken. Later we hear that there has been hardly any traffic in downtown anymore, and that's an exception because it is always busy in a town like Manado. The only bit of bad luck during the Sail pass has been the dark, almost black clouds from where there has been a downpour for more than half an hour. No problem for the participants and spectators, but the pictures and videos could have been more colourful.

Slideshow Sail Bunaken sailpass

Bitung on north-east Sulawesi

2009-08-16T09:10:00.000-07:00

Sunday August 9th after a perfect overnight sailing trip we reach the Rally Bunaken/Sail Indonesia anchorage in Lembeh Strait near the small town of Bitung. On the shore we are welcomed by a lot of flying flags and it's fascinating to see around 40 yachts all close-by anchored in the bay. Holiday has just started and there are musical parades of the different schools with colourfull costumes. These attrack a lot of the people from Bitung and beyond and they all enjoy the spectacle.

We make a tour to the 'Minahasa highlands' where the cooler climate and the fertile vulcano soil are good conditions for growing fruit and vegetables on the special made terraces. On our way we visit one of the caves that the Japanese dug out in the war to protect themselves and their stores and weapons. We pass several monuments and enjoy beautifull views. Later in the week we visit the Tangkoko National Park and make an interesting bush walk.

Friday August 14th there is a welcome dinner for all participants of the Rally. It's a very pleasant evening with local dances and music, a few words and good food of course!

Slideshow Bitung

Our stay in Ambon

2009-08-07T10:00:00.000-07:00

During the week more than 70 boats anchor off the fisherman's wharf in Ambon. When the diesel trucks arrive, more and more yerrycans appear on the quay, so it's waiting for your turn. Also drinking water has to be brought by yerrycan to the boats (luckily we have our own watermaker/desalinator and there is enough diesel in the tanks).

The welcome ceremony is quite a spectacle with officials of the Moluccan province, dance, music and a big BBQ annex buffet. We all got a 'Sail Bunaken' T-shirt and cap.

Public transport is done mostly by 'bemos' (small buses for 10-12 persons) and 'ojeks' (betjaks or bike taxis). There is a lot of traffic in Kota Ambon and we are stuck in a traffic jam! You can't miss the Pattimura Memorial devoted to the famous rebellion against the Dutch. The Siwa Lima museum is very informative with local and colonial history.

Friday morgning at 10 o'clock is the start of the sailrace Ambon - Bitung (on the NE tip of Sulawesi). There ia favourable wind and it must have been an impressive sight to see the whole fleet leave the Ambon harbour. The first night we have big waves from behind, but after midnight the sea settles down, there is still a following wind and with 2 knots of current with us, we fly ahead. A very pleasant sail!

Slideshow Ambon2

Ollong family in Hila

2009-08-03T17:08:00.000-07:00

On invitation we visit the Ollong family in Hila village on the north shore of Ambon island. First we are met by mr. and mrs. Ollong, who are both born in or near Hila and moved to the Netherlands after the independence of Indonesia. Their youngest son is Riad, born and educated in the Netherlands and since three years living in Hila. He has set up a nutmeg processing business. Farmers from the area of Ambon and from Banda bring their nutmegs to the big sheds behind the house in Hila. There are several wooden dryers to get the wet out of the fruits. The nutmeg fruit contains one hard nut, covered with a red thin layer of the 'flower'. The red parts are processed for the foelie, the nuts itself will be grinded sooner or later for the nutmeg. The foelie has to be checked very intensely and every day 20-30 ladies are working on that.

At 4 o'clock working time is over and because one of the nieces of Riad celebrates her birthday, the ladies can't resist the music for the children's party and start dancing in the garden behind the family house. Also Mariet has to show her talents.

With Riad we visit the Fortress Amsterdam, a fysic remnant of the Dutch occupation of Ambon in the time of the spice trade. It is interesting how a young Dutch entrepreneur with Moluccan roots is working now in the spice trade himself.

Another five minutes' ride with the 'ojek' (betjak) and we arrive at a still older monument: a small mosque, originally build in 1414 en removed in 1664 to the new location. It has a beautifully thatched roof (with leaves of the sagopalm) and all natural building materials. Except for the loudspeaker (and cassette-tape) that have replaced, as in many mosques, the muezzin who calls five times a day the moslims to prayer.

Slideshow Hila

Arrival in Indonesia

2009-07-31T12:00:00.000-07:00

In the middle of the night we sail with a half moon behind a cloudy sky. The first islands of the Moluccas (in the east of Indonesia) are behind us and we can see the bright white light on the tip of the harbour of Ambon. When we enter the large and deep bay the wind drops down. After an hour we see everywhere small lights against the mountain: Kota Ambon, the town of Ambon. It's not easy to find a place to anchor because of the deep waters with a steep shoreline.

Next morning a small motorboat of the Rally organisation is coming aside to direct us to the the fisherman's wharf where we can moore 'stern to' and proceed quaranteen, immigration and customs. There are a lot of helpfull people to grap our lines and all happens in a relaxed and joyfull atmosphere.

At 12 o'clock we hear via loudspeakers on a small mosque near the wharf the midday prayer (30 minutes) and later at 4 pm and 8 pm again. We have to get used to it: Indonesia is a moslim country although there also live quite a lot of christians in the Moluccas.

Once on the shore we see they've build a plaza/small village with small restaurants and shops, an Infocentre, etc. It all looks quite nice but most boats of the Rally still have to arrive in Ambon. On saturday afternoon we'll take a Bemo, small bus to town and get our first implressions of the busy citylife.

Slideshow Ambon

Two weeks in Darwin

2009-07-25T02:58:00.001-07:00

July 13th we arrive in Fannie Bay in Darwin and the first days we're busy with organising our trip to Indonesia. We'll join the Rally Sail Indonesia and in the Darwin Sailing Club we meet some members of the organisation committee who provide us with additional info. We also meet some yachtie-participants and we enjoy drinks and a meal together. Tuesday is the last Briefing of the Rally in the Holiday Inn Hotel. There are interesting presentations and again we get to know more participants including a Dutch and a Belgian crew and two Australians we've met 7 years ago in Mooloolaba.
We have to organise our 'social visa' at the Indonesian Embassy and we get a diver under 'Alexandra' to check if we have any dangerous aquatic growth on the hull before we are allowed to enter one of the Darwin marinas. On Wednesday we are moored in Tipperary Waters marina and use that as a base for jobs and provisioning. There is a bus service running to town, washing machines and again new participants of the Rally to meet.

It's warm in Tipperary marina and we install our sun covers. Saturday July 18th is the formal start of the Rally, but we've decided to postpone our departure and sail straight to Ambon to join the Rally there. On Sunday we visit the beautiful Northern Territory museum with an excellent Aboriginal art collection, a fine display of natural history and on DVD the story of Sweetheart, the saltwater crocodile that has caused so much trouble and death in this area and has finally ended up in the museum (stuffed). We are together with new British friends Susan and Keith from the yacht 'Baccus' who are delayed as well because of the breakdown of their generator just three days ago. After a coffee on the deck of the museum we stroll along to Mindle Beach for the yearly Beer Can Regatta. A lot of locals did their utmost to build something fast and seaworthy from empty beer cans (the children used soft drink cans). After display time in the morning there are the races in the afternoon. For a bit of shade and something to eat and drink we enter the Mindil market with also on Sunday a lot of food stalls and opportunities to grab a souvenir, sun hat, massage or (Aboriginal) painting.

Life in the marina is pleasant and easy although there are still some jobs on the list. Wednesday we can do our shopping in the big Casuarina shopping centre, so that'll leave us with only one run for the fresh veggies and fruit just before we leave. In the marina there are two other Dutch yachts, so there is an exchange of experiences and info. Friday is a public holiday and then Monday July 27th is the first opportunity to get fuel and clear customs to leave Australia.

Slideshow Darwin

Farther north to Darwin

2009-07-14T07:20:00.000-07:00

Leaving Flinders islands on monday July 6th the first few hours there is hardly any wind, but at around 4 pm we're under sail and going again with good speed. We are still in the shipping lanes, so all is well lit and we sail on into the night and also the moon is still there. Near Cape Grenville we make s short-cut though the Home islands and it is relaxed sailing with good speed. Flat calm waters all the time, hardly any other vessels. Wednesday morning we enter Albany passage, a channel with some Australian history and still a pleasant waterway to pass.

Then the end of the eastern Australian coast is coming into sight: we approach Cape York and see the lighthouse on the small Eborac island just in front of the Cape. It's a beautiful day and we have the current with us, but also a sad day because here we leave the Coral Sea and the Pacific Ocean behind us. For 10 years we've been sailing and living in this part of the world and we are gratefull for the opportunity we've had to experience so many cultures and meet such interesting people. We'll keep those memories in our heart and never forget!

Just past Cape York we are taken by the current and with 8 to over 9 knots(!) we're heading west along white beaches on the coast and beautiful green islands in Endeavour Strait. Next challenge is the Gulf of Carpentaria, a large stretch of water that lays south of us and causes a lumpy sea. The next night, day and following night are uncomfortable, but the wind is still there as is the moon. Two or three vessels pass us (or at least we've seen them) and almost daily we are overflown by an aircraft of the coastwatch. A few times we have contact with them via the VHF radio to report or confirm our position. The coastwatch patrols the northern borders of Australia in case unannounced vessels are coming into the territorial waters.

Friday at 7.00 pm we see the light of Cape Wessel south of us and the sea is getting settled again. There is a fine broad reach wind of 15-18 knots, so we make good progress under full sails. In the night we have the current with us and we are comfortable behind our jib and reacher, both boomed out. Saturday at the end of the day we pass Cape Don and enter the passage between Melville Island and the Coubourg Peninsula. Very important to have the tide with you there and luckily we can make it all through without having to stop. The wind has disappeared so we have to start the engine. In the morning we have only 20 nm to go, slowly we see the skyline of Darwin coming closer and at 10.30 am we arrive in Fannie Bay and see we're in the company of more than 100 other yachts that are already anchored there.

Slideshow Top Australia

Cairns to Cape Melville

2009-07-05T02:32:00.000-07:00

The last leg to Cairns we have light winds and again we struggle with a flog of five birds that won't give up trying to get passage on Alexandra, at last we get rid of them. Thursday July 2nd at 09.15 am we are moored in Cairns marina and at 11.00 all formalities to set foot on Australian soil are done, so we make a start with filling the water tanks, rinsing the boat, etc. Then we walk in 10 minutes to town for some shopping and a good coffee on one of the many terraces. All people you meet are tourists and there is a relaxed atmosphere with all sorts of shops and a lot of pubs and restaurants.
We catch up with John and Win, sailors we've met in Darwin before, ex-Dutchies, and we have a very pleasant time together. After happy hour on board Alexandra we go to town again and have a meal at the stylish Irish pub. It's still crowded everywhere on the streets and the many terraces. Also temperatures are very pleasant 20-25 C.

Friday morning we get the dinghy ready and in the davids and again we walk to town to the market for fresh veggies and fruit. The choice is overwhelming and of excellent quality! Back on board we drink coffee with new sailing friends who want to know a bit more about the sailmail and SSB radio procedures. At 11.30 am we are ready to leave the marina again on our way to Darwin.
There is a brisk wind of 20-25 knots from the SE (at last), so going north we have the wind behind and we can make a good speed of around 7 knots, in the night a bit less. Our course is partly in the shipping lanes for the big cargo ships, so we have to keep watch carefully. There are about five vessels passing us that night.

Saturday we still have good winds, so we sail on and don't stop at the beautiful Lizard Island (we've spend 3 weeks there 3 years ago). All day we do 7-8 knots and when we pass Cape Melville in the evening, the current runs with us and we see over 9 knots on the GPS, a really fast passage! In Princess Charlotte Bay, halfway Cairns and Cape York, we sail under an almost full moon into the small channel between the Flinders islands to a quite anchorage for the rest of the night.

Slideshow Cairns

Coral Sea

2009-06-27T17:22:00.000-07:00

After a quiet night in a bay behind the NewCal reef, we continue on Monday. Still the sea is uncomfortable due to a stiff wind of 20-25 knots. But Wednesday morning the wind is less and the sea is settling. Thursday and Friday we have two wonderfull days sailing under mainsail and reacher!

After NewCal we've met no vessels any more. Once we've had a group of 20 big dolphins around the boat and in the evening we see some birds chasing for food. Friday a group of six birds in competition for a place on top of the mast have broken down the windex vane, overboard now. The winner has kept his high position for one day and one night, no trick to chase him away and in the morning birdshit on the sails and the deck (thank you).

Due to westerly(!) winds we have to sail south of the the Lihou reefs and we decide to stop at East Diamond Island for a swim, a good meal and a quiet sleep. Still 315 nm to go to Cairns.

Slideshow Coral Sea

Au revoir Noumea

2009-06-21T01:59:00.000-07:00

Fridaymorning our last shopping: on the market fresh veggies, at the 'boulanger' 2 french sticks and we are ready to go. At 12.00 p.m. we depart Port Moselle marina to refuel duty free. It is raining and not a lot of wind so we decide to anchor the first night near the lighthouse. After clearance you are allowed 48 hrs in NewCal waters (unlike other countries!). Sundaymorning we leave the sheltered New Caledonian lagoon via the Passe Boulari heading for Cairns in Australia. The day starts cloudy with not a lot of wind, in the afternoon we have a good run and hope that this will last through the night. Unfortunately the wind increases so that the sails have to be reefed. Again a stormy night, with following seas and winds. We make good progress but sleeping is not comfortable Sundaymorning the wind dies out slowly but the seas are still confused. As we are still close to the reef we decide to make landfall again and find a sheltered anchorage for a good night sleep.

Slideshow coast on New Caledonia

Noumea in New Caledonia

2009-06-12T21:11:00.001-07:00

After the violence of the low pressure systems we once again have light winds. So every now and then we are motorsailing or we have a quiet and slow sail. On approach of New Caledonia we encounter heavy northerlies, on the nose, so that's an unwelcome surprise because we still have to enter the pass through the reef to come into the lagoon of NewCal. New Caledonia is situated between Vanuatu and Australia and since we have our SSB radio out of order, we think repairs are better to be done here.
Once with high speed through the pass we enter calmer waters and we can sail to the main city Noumea, a leg of 25 nm. We are happy to drop anchor at 04.00 am next to the Port Moselle marina.

Friday at 10.00 am we find a berth in the marina and have to wait for officers of Quaranteen, Immigration and Customs before we are allowed to step on Newcaledonian ground. Time to do the dishes and make ship shape, and then a pleasant walk to the shops for a fresh baguette and French cheeses. Luckily we stil have some fine New Zealand wines because the prices for all groceries and also for the wines are frightening high! They are French wines, NewCal is still a colony of France, but twice as deer as we are used to. The tax system in NewCal is to blame for that: no income tax on the wages, but almost 100% GST on everything. The government has to get her money in one way or the other.

Saturday morning we visit the market next to the marina: all sorts of fresh veges and fruits. Half of the population are 'white' people: NewCal has been a penalty colony of France in he 19th century and the descendants of the ex-detinees have since then build up a new and modern life here. The other half are 'Canac's', the original population of NewCal, dark people as we have seen on most of the Pacific islands. The first missionaires have ordered the women to wear multicoloured wide hubbahub dresses and these still are the fashion these days: a bit outdated but very colourfull. A visit to the market is a real picture!

Slideshow Noumea

On the high seas

2009-06-08T09:13:00.000-07:00

The first days and nights after our departure from nelson we have too light winds. Near Separation Point we are twice surrounded by a pod of dolphins and later on we see the sun sinking behind Farewell Spit. We have to use the engine quite often, but slowly we can pick up some wind along the westcoast of the North Island. The Three Kings are the last and most northerly islands of New Zealand and then we sail into the Pacific Ocean again. We hoist the reacher, a big headsail for light winds, but we like to have a little more wind to speed up a bit.

We have had it. From Friday till Sunday we encountered the passing of warm and cold fronts and a new born low pressure system. The winds are on the nose and exceeded 30 knots. You can hear and feel all powers of nature on and through the boat. With a speed of 8-plus knots you thunder through the water, but life onboard all afternoon is not comfortable any more: the boat heals over, is smashing on waves every now and then and there is a constant beating against the wind. Sleeping is also over and the violence and night seem to last forever.

Monday at 12.00 p.m. there is a sudden silence, the speed is gone and we are rocking on a disturbed sea. We remove the double reef from main and jib and set for normal sailing again. It takes all afternoon to quiten the sea a little but we can walk again and eat something.

Then there is a change of plans: we are heading for New Caledonia!

Slideshow High Seas

All the best Nelson, farewell New Zealand!

2009-05-31T15:13:00.001-07:00

Today at 10.00 a.m. we have left the dock and hoisted the sails to sail to the north. Friends of the marina were on the jetty to wave us good bye and slowly we've lost sight of each other. Good appointments have been made for a regular sched via the radio and also via the eamil we hope to keep in contact.

In the Abel Tasman Bay it is calm and quiet, but after passing Separation Point and Farewell Spitt we'll expect to pick up more wind and feel the ocean swell again.

Thank you so much for hospitality, friends in Nelson, we've had a safe and pleasant stop in your marina, a good base from where we could discover a bit more of your beautiful New Zealand and meet a few more pleasant people. Till we meet again we wish you all the best!

Our course is now to Vanuatu!

Slideshow Nelson 2008/09

Waiting, waiting ...

2009-05-27T02:08:00.000-07:00

We still are in Nelson marina and while waiting for a favourable weatherwindow we were thinking of our arrival in New Zealand one year ago. Leaving from Tasmania (Au) we sighted the NZ westcoast at the end of April and after a short stay in Fiordland it was in Bluff on the south tip of NZ that we were welcomed by Customs and Quaranteen. After being moored on the fisherman's wharf for more than a week with very bad weather, we continued to Otago harbour (near Dunedin), Akaroa (near Christchurch), a stormy anchorage behind Cape Campbell and an exciting passage of French Pass before entering the calm waters and safe harbour of Nelson.

Slideshow Entering New Zealand 2008

Not yet departed!

2009-05-22T03:45:00.000-07:00

Every day we receive weather maps and forecasts but they all show a lot of disturbance around New Zealand with strong winds and high seas. Not a good moment to leave for the islands of Vanuatu. But may be after the weekend ...

New sails

2009-04-29T02:29:00.000-07:00

In the beginning of March our discussions with the sailmakers of North Sails in Nelson are finalised. We order modern, heavy duty cruising sails (radial cut made of DP-laminate). Every few days we visit the North Sails 'loft', the workshop of the sailmaker, to be engaged in the sequential stadia of the sailmaking. And we also have to attribute a small effort ourselves. You'll find it all on the pictures in the slideshow.
Before the end of the month we can install our new headsail that fitts perfectly well in the furler. At this occasion we see the thoroughness of the sailing cloth, but also how easy and smooth the sail can be furled in and out.
The mainsail takes a bit longer and since we are a few weeks away from Nelson, we postpone the delivery to the end of April. This turns out to be a rainy period, but in between two showers we are able to put the main in place and get a first impression. To trim the new sails we make two seatrials in the beautiful Abel Tasman Bay. That's only a 10 minutes sail from our position in the Nelson marina.
Trimming the sails, halyards and rigging is an accurate job, depending on the amount of wind and the course we are sailing, and of course the opninion of the other masters we've invited to join us on our seatrials. In short, enough to talk a bit more extensive afterwards with a beer or wine. About one thing we do agree: the new sails on 'Alexandra' look sturdy and show off!

Slideshow New sails

Festivities in Nelson

2009-02-28T02:57:00.000-08:00

Nelson's anniversary: 150 years of city rights is celebrated in February. A long weekend of activities in 'Founders Park' with a lot of singing and dance, music, theatre, a punch and Judy show and local and international food and drinks.
Founders Park is an open-air museum, a historic village, with buildings from the beginning of Nelson (ca. 1830). A church, printing-office, general store, hospital, fire brigade, garage, railway station and many more. The buildings are from the neighbourhood and are relocated to the premises of Founders Park. Most buildings are daily open for the public.
This historic environment is a atmosferic location for quite a lot of activities in Nelson including weddings, (corporate) meetings and functions.

Slideshow Festivities Nelson

Maintenance/refit in Nelson

2009-01-31T02:55:00.000-08:00

While we still had rain on the first day of the new year, there soon came a change to calm and sunny weather. On January 5th the Dickson Marine travellift took us out of the water and after a waterblast we drive into the shed for some major jobs of maintenance. The upper structure is thouroughly sanded, craftfully handled and spraypainted. The worn teakwood is removed from the transom on the back of the boat and provided of a fresh paintcoat and antislip mat. The mast and rigging are checked and repaired where needed.
As a final job we got a new antifoul paint put on and before the end of January 'Alexandra' is back in the water, mast and rigging are put on and she can sail to her berth in the marina again, looking really good!

Slideshow Maintenance